Equestrian Training, Horse Facilities, And More

Dressage for the Showjumper

Posted on April 1, 2011 by Josie

If you are a seasoned showjumper, you may wonder whether there is a point in dressage. You wouldn’t be alone, as many showjumpers are unenthused by the thought of trotting endless circles trying to make their horses look pretty. A showjumper, you would think, needs to be functional, rather than attractive. This is true, but dressage is not necessarily just about improving your horse’s outline. It can help to improve the functionality of your showjumper. In showjumping, the quality of the canter is paramount for a good, active jump and correct bascule. Flatwork schooling can help to improve this, particularly with a flat and “lazy” horse. Direct transitions into and out of canter can be invaluable to increase responsiveness, and lift through the back, both of which are desirable traits in the showjumping horse. Work over raised poles can help increase elevation in the stride, but careful your horse does not treat them as jumps. You are looking for increased work over the back, hindleg stepping under and the forehand lifting, not bunny-hopping. Adaptability is crucial in the jumping horse, and again dressage can improve the adjustability of the stride. You can work on a circle or between two points (or even poles) but aim to canter along your selected distance in a steady working canter. Once you have done this and counted the strides, you can go on to shorten and lengthen the stride between the two points, so that you fit in more or less strides depending on which you were aiming for. On a circle, you need to maintain straightness in order that the horse is not evading connection, as this will affect your stride count, and change the size of your circle. For an accurate account of stride length, you need to ride a uniform line around the circle. Straightness is another important trait in showjumping horses, and there are lots of dressage exercises to help improve this. Working on circles and figure of eights can help you to identify where the problems occur, and whether the shoulders or hindquarters are falling in or out. You can then adjust your riding to try to create a uniform bend from head to tail around the line of the circle. If this is difficult or too easy, you may want to move on and try some lateral work. The mere words seem to strike boredom and disinterest into some showjumping fanatics, but leg yielding, shoulder in and travers can be pivotal in improving your horse’s straightness. They encourage bend through the body, whilst maintaining alignment of the shoulders with the head and neck. In lateral work, it is even easier to identify falling in or out through the shoulder, as the horse will generally tend not to sit in the outside hand (or inside, depending where you are completing the movement and which one you are doing), and the shoulder can easily be observed as being out of alignment. If you find your horse becomes a pro at these exercises, you could move on to tackle some half-pass work, but then you really are moving into dressage territory, and people might get the impression that you are converted! In all seriousness, however, you will find a huge variety of dressage movements can help your horse achieve his jumping potential, and improve his performance. An important tool for success is the help of an inspirational and motivational instructor or coach. This will really help keep you focused and remind you why you are doing it when things get tough. Good luck with the jumping, and even more so with the dressage!

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Posted in Equestrian Competition, Horse Training | Tagged dressage, equestrian competition, horse riding, show jumping | Leave a comment

Time Saving Solutions

Posted on April 1, 2011 by AntonWerth

Those who are lucky enough to have their own horses will understand the phenomenon of the bottomless grooming kit! Once you have your own horse, it is easy to accumulate hundreds of lotions, potions and weird and wonderful looking brushes. Of course, you’ve probably never used half of them, but you have to keep them, because you never know when you might need them. However, in order to objectively save yourself valuable time and money, a clear out and a rethink may be in order.

If this sounds familiar, it might be time for a bit of organisation. Try arranging your unused bottles and pots into one box, and the brushes and grooming tools you use on a regular basis into another. Storing these in a stationary cupboard or chest on the yard is ideal as it saves you running back and forth from your car or house. Of course, not everyone has the option to do this, in which case a bottomless grooming kit may well be the way forwards, but at least try and separate those things that you hardly use, and store them at home.

First Aid equipment is (hopefully) not a regularly used item, so this can be stored separately from your grooming equipment. This is ideal for the antiseptic sprays and various barrier creams which seem to accumulate in your grooming kit. However, unlike the other unused grooming equipment, it is best to ensure that your first aid kit is kept on the yard. Of course, one should be available to you anyway in the case of major incidents, but for minor cuts and bruises it’s best to use your own cotton wool, pads and antiseptics, otherwise you might find an unpredicted addition to your livery bill.

An unusual item which you may find useful to add to your grooming kit is a soft pan scourer- these can be invaluable in winter, saving a considerable amount of time grooming as they quickly and efficiently remove dried mud. It’s best not to use one in the stable, as they can shed foil strands, but if done on the yard these can be easily swept up so that they don’t end up in feeds etc. Used in conjunction with a good quality rubber curry comb, this can work wonders for removing stubborn mud and loose hair.

In summer, you could try making own fly spray, which means you can re-fill the bottle when empty. This way, you don’t just abandon half-used bottles in your grooming kit! There are lots of different recipes available, but most use lemon juice, vinegar, or citronella oil as repellent ingredients. Remember when doing this that you should ideally check with your vet first, and like any shop-bought fly spray, patch test! It is so tempting to just spray your horse manically as soon as you are in possession of some spray, with the sole thought of comforting him from the flies, however if he comes up in a rash due to an allergy to the ingredients, you may find that you are causing him even more discomfort. If in doubt, it’s best to buy a good quality renowned fly repellent instead.

There are literally hundreds of time and money saving ideas available when grooming your horse, but a grooming kit clear out every now and again really can work wonders. It will save you from wasting time rummaging through an entire cupboard to find something you haven’t used for years. Purchasing some new, performance grooming brushes and equipment might also save you time. In terms of saving money, it is important to do, but don’t skimp on the important things, and if your horse can’t tolerate whatever homemade potions you douse him in, make sure you splash out on the real thing, as it is his welfare on the line. After you’ve tidied everything up and planned some new grooming strategies, all that is left to do is enjoy your new found freedom… time for an extra hack, perhaps?

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An Introduction to the Scales of Training

Posted on March 28, 2011 by Josie

The German training system, often referred to as the “Scales of Training” are used worldwide by almost every rider, whether knowingly or not. Similar scales have been known to be developed, but the Germans, famous as they are for the quality of their horses and training have unwittingly influenced the majority of other training systems. Published in the Official Instruction Handbook, they consist of the following six elements in this order: rhythm, suppleness (sometimes referred to as “looseness”, contact, impulsion, straightness and collection. Collection is at the top of the scale, being the ultimate aim. The highest levels of collection are required for Grand Prix movements such as the piaffe and passage.

The order of the first three scales of training is often debated. The idea is that you can’t have one scale of training without implementing the others below it. Therefore, experts often argue out the relative merits of several arrangements, some claiming suppleness should come before rhythm. Ultimately, however the scales of training are a guide to assessing your horse’s way of going, and are used as a basis to judge dressage tests. Even if you are not interested in dressage, using the correct way of going will maintain good & correct build up of muscle, helping to prevent training injuries.

Rhythm is traditionally the most fundamental scale of training; it refers to the regularity of the footfalls. A correct rhythm should have the right number of footfalls for the gait, and these should be steady and consistent. Once you have established a rhythm, your horse should become more relaxed and forward. This should be maintained throughout all your schooling movements.

Suppleness refers to both lateral (side to side) and longitudinal suppleness (over the back) and assesses the horse’s willingness and ability to bend and flex correctly through his whole body. Laterally, the horse should be able to move away from the leg with uniform bend in the required direction. Exercises such as leg-yielding, shoulder-in, travers and half pass can be used to develop and maintain lateral suppleness. Longitudinally, the horse should be bent at the poll, with this being the highest point. The horse should be working softly and round over his back and bring his hind legs underneath him.

Contact should be consistent, and readily accepted. Resistance can be shown in a number of ways including tossing of the head, tucking in the nose, or even twisting the nose. The rider should be careful to be firm but fair, and not to give the horse mixed signals. Some top riders describe an “elastic” feel between your hands and the horse’s mouth, which means that it should be a give- and- take operation, not a one way pulling match.

The last three scales of training are less fundamental perhaps to the novice amateur, but if you are thinking of moving onwards, they are vital to take into account. Straightness is important to prevent falling in or out through the shoulder, and losing balance. A crooked horse can also be unwilling to move freely forwards. This is why it is imperative that you ride both “sides” of the horse at any one time.

Impulsion and collection go hand in hand, as collection is not possible without impulsion. This term refers to the engagement of the hindquarters to create a more expressive and uphill pace. It does not incorporate speed, and therefore you must be careful that the rhythm is consistent: going back to basics. As already explained, collection is the ultimate goal of the scales of training, and it is easy to see why. Collection requires immense strength of the hindquarters, and understanding and obedience to the rider.

Whilst not everyone will strive to be performing Grand-Prix worthy piaffe, hopefully you can now identify some degree of usefulness in a classical training system for your horse. Whether a happy hacker, or professional dressage rider, correct and accurate training will improve your horse’s gymnastic abilities and mental stimulation.

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Using Artifical Aids in Competition

Posted on March 28, 2011 by Josie

The use of whips and spurs in competition is often heavily debated. Many people see it as a detriment to the image of the sport, and the rules regarding their use can be abused. However, this often occurs more at the lower levels, where people are either inexperienced, or take their frustration out on their horse. It is not to be said that some professionals don’t occasionally do the same but this should highly frowned upon, as it encourages others in the sport to do the same.

The majority of riders use artificial aids correctly, as a back-up to the natural aids, and only when several applications of the natural aid have been ignored. Some, however, perhaps through ignorance, often compensate for their own riding faults through the use of excessive punishment to the horse. In the long term this can cause significant mental confusion for the horse and at the very least produces a “lazy” horse, which responds with learned helplessness, and does not willingly travel forward.

The question is, how is this dealt with at competitions? Some venues simply ban the use of artificial aids altogether, although this is rare. Most have rules in place that “excessive” use or bad conduct will result in elimination, however due to the subjective nature of these phrases, this is very difficult to judge and depends largely on an individual viewpoint. The FEI highlights the importance of good general welfare in it’s code of conduct, and that this should be paramount over competitive and commercial purposes of the horse. In Eventing, different levels of warnings are given for dangerous riding. This quantifies the severity of an occurrence, and therefore could be considered an effective way of dealing with the situation. The penalty system has been newly reviewed in the rules for 2011, and has yet to be proven. Dangerous riding is less to do with the use of whips and spurs, but constitutes riders who are not of the ability to ride at the level (getting consistently left behind, or too far forward), or those who knowingly compromise the welfare of their horse, through getting in too deep or standing off from fences on a regular basis, or failing to effectively achieve a safe level of responsiveness.

FEI Eventing rules on whip use are echoed similarly in other disciplines, stating that venting temper on a horse is always excessive use. Whips are not to be used overhand, or break the skin, and cannot be used more than three times for once incident. Spurs may be used for all phases, but must not exceed 3.5 cms, and must be blunt (not capable of causing any degree of injury). Rowels are allowed in dressage if freely rotating. On an international scale, being in breach of these rules can cause elimination, but also significantly affect a rider’s image. As professionals, most riders will avoid such behaviour at all costs, and with such good policing systems, such as highly trained stewards and investigative boards, occurrences of abusive behaviour at this level are thankfully low.

Ideally, however, more needs to be done at the amateur end of the scale, inclusive of both affiliated and unaffiliated competition. Educating people is key, but at the same time we need them to work with the industry and not against it, so going up and telling them what you thought of their riding at the end of their round may not be the best way of addressing the issue. If you are genuinely passionate about tackling excessive use of artificial aids in local competition, why not approach some of your local competition centres and try to set up some kind of officiating board for the area? On the other hand, you can simply do your bit by riding your horses in a positive way which promotes the standard of riding you want other people to follow. Supporting your views is important; if you believe in something, don’t let it pass you by.

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Posted in Equestrian Competition, Horse Care | Tagged equine welfare, horse riding, negative reinforcement, riding whips | Leave a comment

Choosing an Outfit for an Equestrian Job Interview

Posted on March 18, 2011 by AntonWerth

It can be really difficult to decide what to wear to go to an interview for an equestrian job, especially if it is a yard position you are going for. Of course, you don’t really want to turn up in full riding gear, looking like you are expecting a lesson, but at the same time, if you don’t wear some sort of horse riding clothes you might look inappropriately dressed.

For an office job, whether related to horses or not, there is often a standardised set of ideas as to how you should dress, which can often make the choice easier. (Although you will still probably change outfits at least 10 times!). If you are well-tuned to fashion, you may find you can work the jodhpur-style trouser look anyway, being quite trendy at the moment. For the majority of us, though, a smart pair of ordinary black trousers, or skirt, with a shirt-style top will be the norm. This may sound rather boring, but you could always bring a bit of colour into your outfit with a coloured top, so long as it is a tidy looking one. Also, you can make the most of accessories which may bring out a little of your personality, but don’t go overboard, keep these to a minimum!

On the other hand, as mentioned, a yard job can be much more perplexing to dress for. The main influencing factor is likely to be the type of job you are going for, so try and find out as much as you can about your expected duties beforehand. For example, if your job was in a training centre and required mostly riding, you may well turn up in your riding gear. This should incorporate clean riding boots and jodhpurs, and depending on the weather, a smart polo shirt, or jacket. Obviously it will depend what you are comfortable in as to what horse riding clothes you choose to wear, but as a general rule only do this if you know you will be expected to ride. For a groom’s job, trainee, or yard worker, it may be more appropriate to wear boots of a more workmanlike nature. Jodhpurs may still be acceptable, as they are smart, but a pair of clean Dubarry-style boots or a pair of clean Hunter wellingtons may give off an air of professionalism, and give your employer the idea that you are prepared for hard physical work. If you decide on full riding gear, or even just your horse riding clothes, jodhpurs and smart boots, the most important thing is to ensure they are sparkling clean. You want to look as though you are suitably prepared, but looking as though you have been dragged through a mud puddle unfortunately doesn’t convey commitment to an employer (Even if that is what you felt it took to achieve the look!).

Finally make sure that all of your office or horse riding clothes are well fitting, you don’t want them to be hanging off you. Also, ensure that they flatter you and optimise your appearance; obviously you don’t want a pair of jodhpurs that are so tight they show off your underwear! Overall, this will give the ultimate impression of you, suggesting that you pay attention to detail, but also give you the confidence to be yourself and concentrate on the interview.

All jobs will be individual, and you may feel that wearing full business dress or horse riding clothes is not appropriate. In this case, try to adapt your outfit to the work you expect to be doing, but if in doubt, contact someone who may have been through a similar process, as they may be able to give you some advice. If you don’t know anyone in this position, it might be worth ringing another yard, or speaking to your own, to ask them what they would expect from someone in your situation. Most will be happy to help. Dress for a good first impression, stay calm and good luck!

The Equine Store stocks a wide range of top quality items for horse and rider, everything from boots to breeches. Visit the shop at http://www.equine-store.com

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Top Tips for a Happy Horse #4 – A Stimulating Stable Environment

Posted on March 18, 2011 by Josie

It is generally agreed that the natural environment for the horse is to be turned out in a field rather than shut in a stable all of the time. However, in the modern day this is not always possible or practical. There are occasions where stabling is a must, either because the horse is injured and requires box rest or simply due to the nature of his work or the requirements of the yard he is stables on. Some horses cope with this really well and are quite happy to spend time dozing in their stables, yet there are the handful of stressed animals that cannot cope with the idea of being stuck in and really cannot understand the situation.

When initiating box rest, the first step is to ideally to let the horse know that something has changed, in a subtle way. For example, with a shod horse, removing his shoes will make him more comfortable (as well as saving you money) for the duration. You might also consider moving him to a stable in a quieter part of your yard, so that he does not get upset every time somebody brings a saddle near him. This may not be an option for some horses, as it may create unnecessary stress and tension, which may worsen or put strain on the injury due to movement. Box walking or weaving could be induced as well through boredom.

The aim for improving box rest for a horse is to increase stimulation as much as possible. The box environment can be very non-stimulating for a horse, and therefore can cause boredom, stressful and abnormal behaviours. In order to keep your horse occupied whilst you are at work during the day, there are a few solutions you can try. Firstly, the provision of ad-lib forage, in the form of several haynets or a large hay manger, can fulfil the horse’s natural desire to trickle feed, and should keep his stomach full and his foraging instincts busy. Research has shown that feeding several different forages, so for example, hay, haylage and chopped chaff, can reduce the incidence of stereotypical behaviours for that reason: that it encourages natural foraging behaviour, and allows the horse to feel as though he is making his own nutritional decisions.

It may seem obvious, but cutting back on concentrate feeds will reduce your horse’s readily available energy, and so he will not be as desperate to get out and go galloping! Reduce his feed slowly, though, as otherwise you may unintentionally disrupt the digestive system.

Finally, introducing stable toys has been shown to help relieve boredom, but make sure that your horse does enjoy using his, and that he does not become frustrated by it, as some horses do, otherwise it may be detrimental to their wellbeing. Threading apples and carrots onto a string hung from the roof of his stable can be an entertaining game, but if he finds this too easy, you might want to consider investing in a purpose-made robust plastic stable toy, for example a treat ball. These are conducive to foraging behaviours, and can slow down the provision of feed. If you are feeding a little concentrate still, for example to keep weight on your horse, you may want to feed it in this way to ensure he is not bolting the food, and increase entertainment factor.

Grooming your horse regularly throughout box rest will keep his coat and skin healthy, as well as fulfilling his social needs as best as possible! Find his favourite spot to be scratched, and he will love it. Along the withers, neck and back are common favourites, as this is where their companions would groom them in the wild.

Overall, it seems there are many things you can do to keep your horses happy on box rest, but the more creative you can be the better. You may well come up with lots more ideas, but in general, the more attention you can give your horse at what is for him a very difficult time, the better. He may even thank you for it by being angelic when you finally have the opportunity to get back on board…. Or not, we can only live in hope!

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Competing Solutions: Forgotten Equipment

Posted on March 15, 2011 by Josie

When travelling to a competition, especially if you are new to competing, it can be very easy to forget things. You will find that unfortunately this still happens even as you get more experienced, even professional riders sometimes leave essentials behind, and sometimes it can be irritating. Other times it may be crucial to your performance, in which case it can be really disappointing to forget them.

The best way to prevent this happening in the first place is to write a checklist and ensure that you have everything you could possibly think of for you and your horse on it. Categorise information; so for example, group together all the things you will need as a rider, and then your horse. If you are eventing, or staying overnight, you may need to categorise further by breaking the list down into the different disciplines, or riding gear and overnight gear, for example stable tools and horse rugs. As you pack, try to make sure you physically tick everything off the list. It is really tempting to make mental notes, but you will inevitably get in a muddle, or accidentally miss something out.

If you do arrive at a competition, pleasure ride or training session, without a vital piece of equipment, what can you do? Well, the options are fairly limited, but so long as you haven’t forgotten your horse’s saddle or bridle, generally people will be willing to help you out. (Not that they wouldn’t be with the tack, but obviously tack is individually fitted, and it wouldn’t be ideal to share!) Try politely asking around other competitors or attendees, if they would mind lending you a piece of equipment. If you do, though, make sure it gets back to them in the condition you received it, and that it does get back to them! If not, they may not be willing to help anyone else again in the future, and that would put someone else in a difficult situation! If possible, keep some disinfecting wipes in the lorry if you borrow equipment, in order to try and prevent spread of infections. Of course, that is a risk you take by attending the competition in the first place, but direct contact with equipment worn by another horse is a sure-fire way to spread bacteria, and potential disease.

If you are really struggling to find someone who will lend you equipment, and you are at a yard-based competition, try asking the organisers. They may well have spares to hand, and are usually keen to help in order to maintain customer service.

If at a competition and you come desperately unstuck, visit the trade stands and buy what you need. For little spares this a more viable option, for example if you forgot your plait bands or mane and tail spray. If it’s a more expensive item, it can be annoying, but worth it if you really want to compete. In the case of forgetting your saddle, however, you really might be a bit stuck, unless you have another horse with you competing of a very similar fit, and this is unlikely.

Ultimately, the “take-home” message is that you can usually get away with forgetting small things when competing, so don’t panic, there is enough stress involved as it is. As they say, prevention is the best cure; manual lists are boring but effective. Finally, if you forget your saddle, you’re pretty stumped, so at least try and remember the basics!

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Benefits of Alternative Training Methods for Fitness and Business Development

Posted on March 15, 2011 by Josie

For those who are lucky enough to have access to them, alternative training methods can be a really useful addition to the horse’s work programme, or as a rehabilitation facility. They include such technologies as treadmills, horse walkers and horse swimming pools amongst others and their benefits are discussed here. Treadmills are of two varieties, the first being a high speed treadmill. These require large amounts of space in order for the mechanisms to be installed under the floor of your treadmill housing. However they are a durable long term investment and offer greater robustness than an ordinary treadmill, which will not allow such high speeds. For this reason, whilst it may be possible to incorporate a high-speed treadmill into a training programme for an event horse, allowing periods of long steady canter, or bursts of gallop, a low speed treadmill may be more suited to a rehabilitation programme, in which slow and steady work would be key. Having said that, a low speed treadmill is a more financially viable option for most small yards. The one disadvantage of a treadmill is that horses need to be trained in order to use them and this may be a drain on resources, as it can be a long winded process. You may decide, however that the benefits outweigh the time consumption, in which case the end product: a horse which performs well on a treadmill, may be worth it. If using a treadmill for rehabilitation purposes, remember that the workload will be slightly less than if you were walking out along a solid surface. This is because treadmills provide the horse with a passive stance phase, meaning that the machine moves the limb backwards in the gaits, pushing the weight of the horse forwards without the need for him to create the momentum himself. Swimming pools also have their benefits, as they provide a source of resistance for the body, and therefore can be effective at fittening the horse and increasing respiratory and cardiac output. Of course, if you are lucky enough to be stabled near a beach, or safe stretch of river, you could swim your horses there. Not having a swimming pool isn’t a limitation, but the more alternative training methods you have, the more varied the horse’s work programme will be. Also, water increases buoyancy, and takes weight off the limbs, so can be ideal for recovering from injury. Circular or straight swimming pools exist, but circular pools tend to put more strain on a horses legs, and obviously the horse needs to be “swum” in both directions. Straight pools require you to swim the horse in and walk him out several times, and can be quite inconvenient Horse walkers are a more common method of alternative training which a lot more people have access to. As part of a business, they can be labour saving, but the benefits for training are controversial. When installing one, the diameter and shape need to be taken into account, as a very tight circle can place immense demands on joints and tendons. Oval walkers are available these days, which allow the horse to incorporate straight stretches into his walking, and can alleviate the chances of strain. It is also important that the horse is walked evenly on both sides in order that he doesn’t muscle up unevenly. Ultimately, if you don’t have access to such luxuries on your yard, don’t think yourself at any loss. Variety can still be maintained within your horse’s work programme, it just requires a little more time and some creativity. However, if running a business which intends to expand, investing in some form of alternative training may improve your potential consumer base, and create value for existing customers.

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Equine Welfare and the Five Freedoms

Posted on March 8, 2011 by Josie

Horse welfare is a controversial topic, and something which is difficult to police. Measures are very subjective, and often what one person perceives to be bad welfare, another won’t. In the UK, animal welfare laws have recently been updated to encompass the modern role of animals in society (Animal Welfare Act 2006), and require that five basic needs of an animal are met. These are known as the “five freedoms”, and cover essential provisions for a healthy quality of life. Standards apply to all animals in all situations, but here is a brief overview in relation to the horse:

The first “freedom” is freedom from hunger and thirst. This requires that a horse has constant access to fresh water, and a diet suitable to keep him healthy. In other words, starvation is not acceptable, but owners must be very careful about overfeeding as well. Zealous titbitting and extra food for “good behaviour” are easy ways to make a horse obese, perhaps even without noticing the change. Obesity can have ill effects as it puts a huge amount of strain on the legs and can predispose to laminitis as well as other conditions. This is a topical issue within the showing world, where some owners confuse show condition and obesity. Education is being used as an effective tool to help reduce the situation occurring.

Freedom from discomfort requires the provision of a suitable environment. For a horse, that is taken to be an area of shelter where the horse can rest. Shelter does not necessarily have to be an elaborate barn, if a hedgerow or tree in the horse’s field provides a dry area which is out of the wind. This needs to be taken into account by onlookers who are often quick to accuse owners of dirty or untidy horses of practising bad welfare. Often these horses have better protection against the elements, due to natural adaptation caused by being left to develop “wild” tendencies. Judgement should be reserved unless there is evidence to suggest the horse is being mistreated in any way.

The third freedom is for the horse to be able to exhibit normal behaviour. This is subject to interpretation, but is generally considered to be the provision of sufficient space. In the case of stabled horses, a reasonable size of box should be acceptable, although turnout needs to be considered. Some competition horses are not turned out at all, but they get substitute amounts of strenuous work. Therefore, for most stabled pleasure horses, turning out for a good run around a few times a week will drastically improve wellbeing, and reduce occurrence of abnormal behaviours.

Freedom from distress incorporates the need to be turned out with, or stabled alongside other horses. Horses are social animals and the need to be around others is essential in creating a feeling of security. It is also vital to help develop a hierarchy between the animals, which helps to conserve energy in the long run. In a well established hierarchy, horses follow a pecking order which saves them wasting valuable energy fighting for the best food.

Finally, owners should take reasonable precautions to ensure their horses are free from pain, injury and disease. In the event of an occurrence, they should react accordingly to prevent suffering, by providing treatment. This final statement is straightforward, but can have the worst implications if not adhered to.

As responsible horse owners, there is no doubt that we provide all of the above for our own animals, but if in doubt about the condition of another’s animals, try to put your “common sense” head on and ask yourself whether they are genuinely suffering. If you feel they are not, but aspects of a horse’s care could be improved, it might be worth politely and gently explaining your thoughts to the person in question. Of course, you may be rudely dismissed, but your words will be remembered regardless. If you feel someone may react abusively, it might be safer to contact a local welfare authority and ask for advice regarding the matter.

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Top Tips for a Happy Horse #3 – A balanced diet

Posted on March 6, 2011 by Josie

Balancing forage and concentrate ratios can seem like a nightmare. Of course, the horse evolved as a herbivore, and therefore a forage diet should provide all the nutrients a horse needs, shouldn’t it? This is true, but with modern horse sport having very different energy requirements to roaming the plains, a concentrate supplement is often required.

For horses in light work, or who are turned out and therefore have a high forage diet, often supplementation with concentrates is limited. A vitamin and mineral boosting pellet, or other beneficial product for example, hoof strengthening feedstuffs, may be all that is fed otherwise to enhance health. If feeding high amounts of forage, it is important to assess the quality of it, either by sending away samples or if you are experienced you can assess it to a certain extent visually and tactilely yourself. High levels of dust and spores can cause breathing problems, such as Recurrent Airway Obstruction (formerly COPD). This requires intensive management, and is something you really want to avoid if possible. The quality of your hay can also influence weight gain, if it is very coarse and full of stems, (high lignin content) it will be difficult for the horse to break down in the hindgut, and therefore could be fed to a horse on a diet. This is because it requires more energy to digest, and therefore the horse will deposit less fat to store energy being released. Leafy hay (low lignin content) such as grasses and clovers are easily broken down, and therefore more energy is stored. These are better fed to poor-doers.

Feeding high levels of concentrate is associated with horses in hard work. This is because they require more-readily available energy. Concentrates are quickly broken down, as they do not need to ferment, and therefore are fed in high levels to race and event horses to provide quick-release energy. However, feeding grain can be detrimental to the health of the horse, both physically and psychologically. For one thing, it reduces the amount of time spent feeding, which can induce boredom and encourage the development of abnormal behaviour. It has also been associated with ulceration of the stomach, due to increased acidity levels. Strategies to prevent this happening have been researched, for example, feeding forage before grain can help to slow the passage through the digestive system, and buffer the acidic increase.

Feeding for longer, harder work will often incorporate higher levels of hay and haylage, as this facilitates a build up of essential water and electrolyte supplies in the hindgut, which can then be released slowly over a period of time. For this reason, endurance horses and riding-school horses often have a low concentrate diet.

When it comes to determining feed ratios for your own horse, it is important to consider the amount and type of work he is doing. If you want to be really scientific and detailed, then you can refer to the National Research Council’s guidelines (2007). These define the ideal amounts of each nutrient and have reams of in depth research regarding their usage. Ultimately, however, a system of trial and error may be what it takes to determine what is right for your horse, but make sure you make any changes to his diet gradually!

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